Camino Portuguese, Part 3: More in Portugal

From Ponte de Lima the path continued through cobblestoned towns, tree groves, and countryside with a mountain backdrop. Many homes were bordered by grapevine fences next to gardens that grew summer produce in abundance.

Cloudy skies turned blue for the final days of the route in Portugal. Our walking pace was ‘slow & steady’ (taking lots of scenic breaks & photos) and allowed us time to “stop and smell the flowers.” Although we met other pilgrims on the trail, it never felt crowded. Often we walked alone for a while before seeing anyone else.

On some days Dad chose to walk in sandals to give his feet a break from hiking shoes. For more info about footwear, including a tip on how to avoid blisters, check out Camino Packing. Keeping feet happy is essential on a Camino!

Camino art pointed The Way in Arcozelo

The trail wound by an overpass near Labruja, our next stop.

Cafe Cunha Nunes in Labruja provided refreshments after a long stretch without finding a bar/cafe open.

Adjacent to Cafe Nunes was Capela de Nossa Senhora das Neves with a bright yellow interior & a figure of St. James. The saint carried a walking stick, gourd, & of course, a “pilgrim pouch.”

Down the road from the cafe was our B&B lodging Quinta Labruja. It offered spectacular views of the surrounding hills. Host Gisa prepared delicious vegetarian dishes for dinner that were served on the patio amidst the peaceful setting.

Her & husband Fred’s historical home had been a store in centuries past with pilgrim customers. Transactions took place through a window in the common room downstairs.

Toasting Quinta Labruja with a good cup of coffee in the morning — Obrigada!

A ‘vineyard tunnel’ in Agualonga

By a ridge a bell ‘tinkled’ from above — surprise — a sweet cow looked over to moo hello!

Camino guidance by a crossroad, where signage is often placed for lodging too

At a ‘bar stop’ in Cossourado we met locals Isabel & Filomena, who invited us over for lunch at Mena’s lovely home in the countryside. It so happened to be a holiday in Portugal, & their husbands grilled sardines (a common Portuguese dish) in an open ended ‘grill room’ off the courtyard. The meal was spread outside on a unique table built from stone found on the property.

Conversation flowed, and it was interesting hearing about their lives & perspectives. Dad & I appreciated their gracious Portuguese hospitality, & the experience was one of the highlights of our Camino!

After lunch they drove us back to the bar, and from there we walked a few kilometers to the day’s destination near Sao Bento da Porta Aberta.

Isabel & Filomena at the bar where we met them — special peregrinas!

The grounds of our lodging, Casa da Capela (The Chapel House), included, as the name describes, a chapel, the Nossa Senhora do Alivio Chapel. Besides taking a swim in the pool, guests could relax on the cobblestone terrace, play billiards, or borrow a bike for a ride.

The next morning OJ & coffee helped us get ready for the walk to Valenca, the last stop in Portugal.

The Gold Bee Bag poses by a rustic gate near Fontoura.

Daisies for Mom — her favorite flower

Valenca (also known as Valenca do Minho) is a medieval fortress town and a popular tourist spot. This walled settlement rests on two hills and overlooks the River Minho. Its origins date back to the 13th c. and was built to help protect the area from sieges by the Spanish & French. The town also offered shelter to pilgrims on their way to Santiago.

A steep portal gained entrance to the fortress, and the nearby Information Center provided a map that outlined the maze of streets. Buildings comprised shops, restaurants, hotels, and even residential sections with quaint plazas & historical churches.

We spent the afternoon exploring the walls & bulwark levels with watchtowers. The bridge that connects Valenca to Tui, Spain could be seen in the distance.